Tuesday, 3 July 2018

[research] [review] Common chemicals used in skincare products and what they do

Beauty Tips For Body Care
Hey everyone! Due to a recent posting of misinformation being spread on here, excessive worrying over ingredients, and people PMing me for advice I figured I would just make a post about this to help other people with similar questionsFor background, I am a chemist- in particular a biochemist with a research area focus on mineral/ion- skin absorption. I'll try to hit the ones that aren't in the side bar already and separate them out by category for easy viewing. Let me know if I missed any big ones!Emulsifiers - keep oil/water based chemicals from separating in productsMost common products I see contain polysorbates, laureth-4, glyceryl monostearate (also pearlescent agent) lauramide DEA (also foam booster), or potassium cetyl sulfate. There's also stearic acid that also helps with cleansing. These aren't necessarily bad for you nor are they good for you. They're kinda meh ingredients that exist to make the product workPreservatives- extend their shelf life and are anti microbialparabens- these get a lot of flack but there isn't that much research confirming their 'toxicity'. The original study that brought them into the spotlight was over hyped by the media and dozens of other studies done afterwards have yet to find a definite link to cancer or other diseases. These are however very great preservativesBenzyl alcohol containing products has been known to dry some people out due to it's status as an alcohol. Aside from a preservative it's also used as a ph balancerformaldehyde- if you see this in a product, you may want to be wary. The World Health Organization has determined this to be a carcinogen; however whether trace amounts are as bad for you is still unknowntetrasodium EDTA/ disodium EDTA- normally these are used to draw metals out of the blood, but in terms of skincare, both work to stabilize the product by binding other chemicals. Only concern with this one is that it's an environmental hazardPhenoxyethanol - an antimicrobialethylhexylglycerin - helps with eczema and also works for some people with rosaceaMoisturizers : Lipid thickeners - give product it's creamy consistencycetyl alcohol, stearic acid and carnauba wax are the big ones- aren't bad, rarely cause things like breakouts for most people. These are also good at protecting the moisture barrier from water loss by forming a 'seal'Moisturizers : Natural thickeners - come from nature, usually work as humectants (think hyaluronic acid)hydroxyethyl cellulose, guar gum, xanthan gum and gelatin are the most popularMoisturizers: Mineral thickeners - also natural, absorb both oils and retain watermagnesium aluminium silicate, silica and bentonite are the big ones here. A lot of clay masks and some silicone based (neutrogena) sunscreens are apart of this category. Silicone based sunscreens are great for those who's skin can handle them since they keep oils/shine in check while also preventing your skin from overdryingMoisturizers: synthetic thickeners - used in a lot of gel type products and some of the rich/smooth white creamscarbomer, cetyl palmitate, and ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate are common onesEmollients - soften the skin by preventing water loss, work as humectants, definetly want these in your routinebeeswax, olive oil, coconut oil and lanolin, petroleum jelly, mineral oil, glycerin, zinc oxide, butyl stearate and diglycol laurate , urea, glycerol, propylene glycol or lactic acid are big ones here.Some of these are termed 'comedogenic' like coconut oil but many many people don't break out from them so that's a pretty arbitrary rating imo
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