Beauty Tips For Body Care
I recently left a review on Deciem's website regarding The Ordinary's Advanced Retinoid 2% Emulsion. I gave 5/10 stars because, I wrote, I could only find any scientific peer-reviewed articles supporting its effectiveness on melasma and acne and not in support of their argument that Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate was superior to retinol on multiple signs of aging, as they state on their website (hence "Advanced"). Just so that you all know, I am a fan of The Ordinary and use and enjoy several of their products regularly. Although I have bought and used the Advanced Retinoid 2%, I prefer their retinol products because there are multiple studies that have investigated the effects of it on signs of aging.Deciem responded to my review: "Granactive Retinoid has been shown to offer better results against multiple signs of aging than retinol without any of the irritation and drawbacks common with retinol."I decided to follow up and wrote them an email basically saying what I just told you and asking, out of curiosity, for published studies that support their claims. I asked whether it was just a hypothesis or if there had been a comparison study. Here is their response:This claim is based on an independent clinical performed by Grant Industries. The literature is not published publicly and we apologize but we are unable to share this clinical with you. However, following are few summarized points from this study:-The Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate shows efficient diffusion through the stratum corneum comparable to prescription retinoic acid-Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate interacts with the retinoid receptors, RAR (α, 𝜷 and 𝛾), with no evidence of a hydrolysis or breakdown to Retinoic Acid. This speaks to the retinoic activity of the molecule itself.-Hydroxypinacolone retinoate does not cause detectable systemic rise in retinoic acid values.-RIPT results show that hydroxypinacolone retinoate does not cause irritation.Unpublished (and published) clinical research is pretty typical for companies in justifying effectiveness of anti-aging ingredients. It's still not sufficient for me, especially when retinol and the less irritating retinaldehyde have published peer-reviewed independently-funded studies backing them. What Deciem says here is nothing we haven't heard before, that these esters can work on retinoid receptors with less irritation. However, it pretty much supports what most people have concluded, that it is promising as an ingredient but too early to tell.We should all come to our own conclusions. Mine is that Deciem's marketing of Advanced Retinoid as superior to retinol (on criteria other than irritation) seems unsupported. The jury is still out, and maybe in the future effectiveness will be shown. In the meantime, I put my confidence in retinol, and for those who can't tolerate it, retinaldehyde may be the better choice. What do you all think?
Girls Blog 2015
Submitted by anthrogal19
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