[Sun Care] UVA Protection and rising PPDs | Dissecting La Roche-Posay's Anthelios Fluid's PPD jumpevery reformulation: from PPD 28 pre-2009, to PPD 38 in 2009 -> PPD 42 in 2014 -> PPD 46 in 2019 -> PPD 50 in 2024?

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The latest iteration of La Roche-Posay's European Anthelios facial fluid is the Shaka Fluid with a stratospheric PPD of 46. It was launched this year, but three products have preceded it over the years. They were launched before 2009, in 2009, and in 2014, respectively. I don't know what came before 2009, but according to this video, the pre-2009/10 product had a PPD of 28 before LRP pioneered the Mexoplex triptych (Mexoryl XL, SX, and Tinosorb S), so if anyone could fill me in on that, that'd be great.(1) Anthelios Launch Fluid, Name?: pre-2009 | PPD: 28 | Filters: ? | Number: ?(2) Anthelios XL Fluid Extreme: Launched 2009 | PPD: 38 | Filters: Octocrylene, Titanium Dioxide, Avobenzone, Mexoryl XL, Uvinul T 150, Tinosorb S, Mexoryl SX | Number: 7(3) Anthelios XL Ultra-Light Fluid: Launched 2014 (+5 years since Fluid Extreme) | PPD: 42 (+4 since Fluid Extreme; +14 since Launch Fluid) | Filters: Avobenzone, Octocrylene, Mexoryl XL, Uvinul T 150, Tinosorb S, Mexoryl SX | Number: 6 (-1)(4) Anthelios Shaka Fluid: Launched 2019 (+5 years since Ultra-Light Fluid; +10 years since Fluid Extreme) | PPD: 46 (+4 since Ultra-Light Fluid; +8 since Fluid Extreme; +18 since Launch Fluid) | Filters: Octisalate, Uvinul T 150, Tinosorb S Lite Aqua, Avobenzone, Mexoryl XL, Mexoryl SX | Number: 6 (-- since Ultra-Light Fluid; -1 since Fluid Extreme)We can deduce from the last three products that LRP reformulates its facial fluid product every five years, and that the PPD has increased by at least +4 points with each reformulation. So a future release would probably look something along the lines of:(5) Hypothetical Anthelios Sunscreen: Launching 2024 (+5 years since Shaka Fluid; +10 years since Ultra-Light Fluid; +15 years since Fluid Extreme) | PPD: 50+ (+4 since Shaka Fluid; +8 since Ultra-Light Fluid; +12 since Fluid Extreme; +22 since Launch Fluid) | Filters: ? | Number: ?There are a couple of interesting things to note here.1) If LRP were to release a PPD 50 sunscreen in 2024 that retained the cosmetic elegance of the Shaka Fluid, it would be quite the achievement. It's very rare for an SPF50+ sunscreen to achieve an SPF:PPD ratio of 1:1. The PPDs of most SPF50+ sunscreens don't even breach 50. It's even rarer for a sunscreen to come close to that PPD rating or breach it without sacrificing on cosmetic elegance. A good example would be the Uriage Bariesun XP Cream, which has an unmatched PPD of 65, but is straight out of white cast hell with Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide, and Tinosorb M in its formulation.2) LRP has increased the PPD not by chucking more and more UV filters in, but by tweaking the fluid vehicle of the sunscreen to optimise coverage. This fantastic video (worth a watch) explains it better than I ever could. What I can deduce from the video is that pre-existing sunscreen filters aren't being optimally used in most formulations, and that far more can be done with less. This really goes to show how useless BASF's sunscreen simulator is. The simulator does not account for the vehicle that the filters find themselves in.3) Based on 2), we can deduce that future advances in sunscreen technology will be driven primarily by advances in film-forming, polymerisation, and nanotechnology, and may not necessarily be driven by the invention of new sunscreening agents. If the US FDA continues to shun Tinosorb, Uvinul, and Mexoryl, American sunscreen manufacturers could achieve higher UVA ratings by formulating their products more efficiently.Cool stuff!
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Submitted by battyboy9