Thursday, 20 February 2020

[Misc] Is anyone else bothered by the misrepresentation of "studies" to gain authenticity in the SkinCare community? Specifically by YouTube influencers...

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Sorry if anyone is a fan of Hyram, but I recently was exposed to him in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QpPLMPfEO3I where he reacts to another YouTuber's skincare routine.At around 20:18, Nikki mentions putting on her facial oil last because she doesn't want the occlusive to prevent other products from penetrating, and Hyram lectures us about how the product ordering doesn't matter, then he cites a study discussed by KindofStephen. He seems to love throwing around the idea of research / science and use skincare jargon to promote legitimacy amongst his followers.I don't think it's fair to cite a research study to gain "authenticity" but then promote conclusions that aren't supported by (or, perhaps even contradicted by) the study / source (KindofStephen). Hyram takes one study and (1) takes it as universal truth to push back against previous skincare mantra (2) doesn't consider existence of additional supporting studies (3) doesn't consider sample size (n=20, which is quite small / hard to obtain statistical significance from) (4) misrepresents the study's (and even STEVEN's - his "idol") conclusions. For reference, KindofStephen links to this study https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/29394018 and says:"A group of Chinese researchers performed an experiment looking at the effect of different combinations of three products (moisturizer, toner, and mineral water sprays) and different application routines on skin moisture. Keep in mind that the only endpoint measured was stratum corneum moisture measured by the Corneometer, a capacitance measuring tool often used in cosmetic research. This experiment doesn’t provide any insight beyond skin moisture, like skin penetration of an active affected by combination or routine, for example."Stephen even mentions that the results only measure final moisture in the skin and consider the interaction of toner, moisturizer, and mineral spray. It's hard to say this generalizes to active products like AHAs/BHAs or even occlusives like oils/petroleum jelly. Stephen ALSO says:"While applying any form of skincare product created an increase in skin moisture in dry and normal skin, some combinations were significantly more effective than others."This means that order DOES matter ("significantly more effective than others"). From the study's abstract, the conclusion for normal skin is: "For normal skin (hydration value at baseline >35 a.u.), C-T led to greatest hydration change rate compared with others, followed by C+T, T+C, and C."Sorry for this /rant, I just get kind of annoyed by this know-all attitude that is present amongst some SkinCare influencers, and they feel justified in themselves bc of "science." In contrast, I love Susan Yara's very open-minded attitude that is not condescending nor judgmental, which is very nice to see, especially in her reaction videos.
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Submitted by LifePonderer

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