Monday, 4 May 2020

How to better treat Keratosis Pilaris (Update #3)[DIY]

Beauty Tips For Body Care
Hi everyone, I have an update that I think some of you may find interesting if you’ve been following my other posts. I wanted to share with you some more recent treatment efforts.(Original post if you haven’t read it: https://reddit.com/r/SkincareAddiction/comments/e0ka9z/why_weve_been_looking_at_keratosis_pilaris_wrong/ )My skin today ( 2+ months of synthetic sebum treatment): https://i.imgur.com/Yhxhw59.jpgSome additional before pics: https://imgur.com/a/QqTYVCr/We know that Jojoba oil, as great as it is, is only 25% of the make up of human sebum. This was something that I initially was under the wrong impression about. In my original post you can see that I believed jojoba oil was mimicking the entire human sebum complex. I now know that this is not true and that there are many important components in sebum that all have important roles to play.So imagine how your skin would be if you applied a sebum formula that more completely supplemented you’re skin’s oil production. For me this is the logical next step in treating KP, and it’s honestly the best treatment we have available in my opinion.Now let’s get into what this synthetic sebum formula is.I’m still working on the ingredients and portions, so expect this to be updated.2 tbsp of jojoba oil1 tbsp of squalane2 tbsp of grape seed oil4 drops of vitamin E oil2.5 tbsp of palm oil (refined if possible)Optional: - 1/4 tbsp of polysorbate 80The jojoba oil and squalane act as waxy fats that make up about 1/3 of human sebum.Fatty acids like oleic acids are present in grape seed oil.Vitamin E is a additive that exists in small amounts on our skin and the palm oil makes up the remainder of the triglycerides.The polysorbate 80 is optional, but that acts as a agent to increase solubility. If you choose to forgo this ingredient, expect to see some separation in the formula. You can work around this by popping the mixture into the microwave for 15 seconds and stirring it up before applying it to your skin.(I actually think that leaving out polysorbate 80 and heating the mixture for 20 seconds in the microwave before applying to the skin is more effective at penetrating the follicular channels in your skin.)All of this is an attempt to mimic what our body creates naturally, a composition of 17% fatty acid, 44.7%triglyceride, 25% wax monoester, 12.4% squalene, and 0.1% vitaminE. I apply this mixture 2-4 times a day to my KP. The more often I apply the mixture, the better the results.To understand why I am using this treatment, it’s best to look at what sebaceous glands do for our skin, specifically in our follicular channels where our keratin scale builds up to create plugs or bumps.As the gland produces sebum, this liquid fills the channel from the base and pushes keratin upwards before spilling out onto the skin. Outside of lubricating the follicle, it’s upward motion is what facilitates the natural shedding of keratin.If you have KP, in line with my previously described theory, your sebum production is so low that this motion of carry sebum upwards and out is inhibited, which is why the build up and bump occurs. This solution will help to fill your channels, assisting what little sebum you have to press a marginal amount of sebum into the channel, forcing keratin upwards.In order for this to happen it is IMPERATIVE that you have exfoliated your keratin plugs away sufficiently so that the formula can penetrate deep enough into your skin to assist this process.My exfoliation regimen is as follows: MWF- AMLactin in the morning, shower in the evening with Neutrogena Salicylic Acid body scrub.Tues/Thursday- Touch KP Glycolic lotion applied in the evenings.Each day I apply the formula throughout, 3-4 times or as I feel necessary. I am warming the mixture every time before I apply it.After applying the synthetic sebum formula: (https://i.imgur.com/Y0cZfV1.jpg)If you have NOT exfoliated sufficiently, the formula will sit on top of your KP bumps doing nothing but hydrating your skin.Therein lies an additional pitfall, that if your formula is not mixed sufficiently, it will not affect the skin evenly. So here are the steps that you can take to try and reach an optimal mixture:DIRECTIONS Step one: Combine all oils and mixtures into a glass bowl EXCEPT for the polysorbate 80.Example: https://i.imgur.com/JCo7oPW.jpgYou will then want to heat this on very low heat until the palm oil softens enough to mix into the other oils. You can do this on a stove top or in a microwave on low for 20-25 seconds. We want to keep the heat low to avoid any hydrophobic bonding.Stir the mixture with a fork until it is completely combined. If necessary, heat for an additional 15 seconds if there are still clumps in the mixture. Once thoroughly mixed, add in the polysorbate 80 and continue to stir. This should keep the mixture in an oil like consistency.If you have trouble sourcing the polysorbate 80 or would like to leave it out entirely, you will see the mixture set.Example: (https://i.imgur.com/Iz37Cdf.jpg)This is actually very interesting since sebum is held in our body as a liquid at 98.6 degrees F, but outside of our body it will solidify to a very similar consistency as this mixture.You can still use the mixture this way, but will need to warm up and stir the oil prior to use each time you go to apply it for best results.Alright so there’s the formula. What else can you do?Hydrate yourself. Your sebaceous glands don’t work if you are dehydrated, so drink a lot of water.Brown rice, avocados, and fish are all good dietary choices for supporting sebaceous gland function.Weight lifting/strength training (this goes for woman and men) boosts your levels of testosterone which affects sebum production. This for me has had a noticeable impact.Stop showering so much. And when you do shower, make it fast with cool water and don’t use soap on your KP. I can’t stress this enough.I’m sure I’ll think of more tips here, but that should get you started if you want to mimic the routine I’m following. As always, take this recipe at your own risk, I am not a dermatologist, just a KP enthusiast if such a thing exists. I’m open to any and all feedback!https://i.imgur.com/YFs49Gd.jpg
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