Tuesday, 5 January 2021

[Sun Care] According to Céline Couteau and Laurence Coiffard, inorganic sunscreens cannot reach an SPF of 50

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Céline Couteau and Laurence Coiffard are two French researchers from the University of Nantes. They are running the blog Regard Sur Les Cosmétiques and often test (in vitro) sunscreens during the summer. They have been researching cosmetics and sun protection for decades. In this video, they talk comprehensively about sunscreen, its history, SPF testings, regulations. Automatic translation is available.List of interesting piece of information they give:Inorganic filters (titanium and zinc), on their own, are not enough to reach an SPF of 50 or 50+, ever. Companies need 5/6/7 filters to reach an SPF of 50 (granted we can find some with 4), so it's not possible to reach 50 with one or two. Logically, inorganic sunscreens can't reach 50. This actually correlates to their summer testings since no mineral sunscreen go above 50 in their in vitro testings, like none of them.Zinc and titanium being anti-inflammatory, they may "hide" sunburns/erythema and make SPF testings inaccurate.They don't like alcohol, not because it's drying or irritating, but because it has been shown to be cytotoxic and it's a penetration enhancer. Same with botanical extracts, because they can be either anti-inflammatory or photo-sensitizing.The 1/3 UVA/UVB ratio was pushed by French dermatologistsThe best sun protection products (which they call PPS in the video) are emulsions and sticks.This video is a breath of fresh air since they're actually scientists specialized in this field. They regularly publish on this. A lot of "science" influencers have been very opinionated on sunscreens (as shown by the Purito episode), but it's actually not their specialty, and it shows.
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