[MISC] Deep dive into Peptide Compounds

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Think we can all agree that Peptides sound cool, but the names are all confusing and there's doubt whether it's just hype and if they even work. Whenever I'd look at product ingredient lists and see peptides, whilst I'd get excited that it's got this cool anti-aging ingredient the skeptic in me would wonder what these weird names actually do. I've been on the lookout for Peptide products to address some crow's feet starting around my eyes and got more curious about the different types of Peptides - whats the difference between Matrixyl and Argireline? Do I go for the Ordinary Buffet or the NIOD CAIS? So to make this very complicated world a bit less overwhelming went down a very deep rabbit hole, similar to a Ceramides analysis I'd done previously.What are Peptides? There's a lot of detailed info on Google, but as a quick summary, they are short chains of amino acids that signal to your skin to create a certain response that serves as building blocks for proteins, like collagen, elastin, and keratin. Depending on the number of chains they get their name - 2 (di), 3 (tri), 4 (tetra), 5 (penta), 6 (hexa), 7 (hepta), 8 (octa), 9 (nona), 10 (deca).The three main types of peptides used in cosmeceuticals: Source.PeptideIn vitro effect(Desired) in vivo effectExamplesSignal peptidesFibroblast activation in response to the degradation of collagen and elastin chainsSmoother, thicker, and firmer skin due to increased collagen productionMatrixyl 3000, Matrixyl Synthe 6, Syn-Coll, Biopeptide ElCarrier peptidesDelivery of copper to the skin to activate enzymatic wound‐healing pathwaysSmoother, thicker, and firmer skin due to increased collagen productionCopper PeptidesNeurotransmitter‐inhibiting peptidesInhibition of the release of neurotransmittersReduction in facial wrinkles caused by a decrease in muscle activity (botox like)Argireline, Argielox/Leuphasyl, Syn-ake, SNAP-8​I've consolidated a list of Peptides (& compounds), their purpose/description based on manufacturer info, and some brands that use them at: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/10lGjMg28Gd_kZ5XKRw2iDVv6k3zTRHtbSn97PdNMbRE/edit?usp=sharingNOTE: Where I've got concrete evidence on the type of peptide I've added them, else consider "Increase Collagen = Signal Peptide" and "Lines/Wrinkles = Neurotransmitter Peptide".How can you use this sheet?Look for a concern that you are looking to address and see the Peptides addressing them and then the products that have them on www.incidecoder.com (linked in sheet)Using/thinking of a product with Peptides? See what they address. eg. was contemplating getting the DE Protini (or the Acure Whipped cream dupe) but they contain 3 compounds BIO-Placenta (with different types of EGF), X50 Antiaging Powder, and Matrixyl 3000 to address collagen production (Signaling Peptides). As these are not my current concerns (onset of wrinkles so need Neurotransmitter Peptides) I'll pass on them. (and thankfully feel like I'm now able to comprehend the purposes of different peptides with my research to find the products that I need!)Find smarter dupes eg. the La Mer Eye Creams use Argireline and the Concentrate one also uses a compound called Eye Liss (to reduce bags) - find other cheaper dupes with these ingredients. I like to use the www.gopicky.com app to filter products when I know the ingredients I'm looking for (can use referral code ABFEC79 to get points for product freebies)Some insights from my research:Peptides are a way for manufacturers to come up with new molecules/compounds to address certain concerns. The list has 50+ just for the face and with the limited evidence, am wary of the lesser known/used ones so will avoid those.We've heard of some of the famous ones - Copper Peptides, Matrixyl, Matrixyl 3000, Matrixyl Synthe 6, Argireline, Epidermal Growth Factors...but there are some other lesser known peptides that are commonly used eg. Biopeptide EL, Syn-Coll, Syn-ake.Came across some formulations which packed in a lot but they were crazy expensive ($200++), or have a lot of lesser used peptides (Saturday Skin mixes well known ones with some only they use), some brands that offer several well rounded Peptide products are Deciem (Ordinary, Hylamide, NIOD), Peter Thomas Roth, Filorga, Le Mieux, Serious Skincare, GM Collin.I still have some open questions which I'm trying to figure out (or maybe you'll can help with based on your research and experience):If Signal and Carrier peptides achieve the same thing (increase collagen production), do we need to use Copper Peptides? NIOD CAIS can't be used in a routine with acids, antioxidants etc - so using a Signal Peptide could achieve a similar effect?Collagen in skin can be boosted by several methods - Acids, Antioxidants, Vit C, Retinol - do Signal Peptides add any special advantages over others? Or is it just hype?As a disclaimer: I'm not a skincare professional/chemist, just an avid Googler and geek who wants to simplify the number of products and ingredients available. If you find any incorrect/missing info, please flag it and I'll update it.Hope this research helps in finding the right Peptide products for you!
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Submitted by e-lusion