[Misc] A checklist of reasons your skincare product stings, burns, and compromises your moisture barrier

Beauty Tips For Body Care
Hi everyone. Thanks to discerning bloggers, AB fans, and you Redditors, I've learned a lot about dehydrated, sensitive and over exfoliated skin, and in doing so repaired my moisture barrier successfully. If you've already patch tested a product and don't see an immediate allergic reaction, or can't figure out which part of your routine is causing your skin to burn or sting, read on.A check list of possible product related problems or "No-no"s.1. pH too high/low2. Not using hydrators3. Using hydrators on dry skin or in dry environment4. Using a highly stripping cleanser especially when you don't have hydrator to follow5. Using occlusives without hydrators6. Layering products in the wrong order or layering products that don't work togetherAbout half a dozen times layering products would made my skin itchy or turn red. I found it's effective to test layering on the palm of your skin. Put a product, let it sink into your skin, squeeze your hand into a fist and let go. Put second product, and repeat. IF they don't play well tougher, my palm will feel icky, extremely sticky, or itchy. The product could even change in color and refuse to be absorbed. Though this method does not apply to occlusives or concentrated snail mucin products, since they stay on the surface for much longer.7. Using chemical or physical exfoliators on compromised moisture barrierLeave it alone8. Testing products with actives on compromised moisture barrierLike seriously, leave it alone9. Using actives daily when you have not built up to it.In my example I used Vitamin C serum for 3 days and at the end of my third day my skin felt stinging. I changed my routine to once every 3 days and now it brightens without compromising my skin.10. Using photo-toxic ingredients without sunscreenPhototoxicity does not only apply to the ingredient itself, but also how that ingredient is extracted and stored. e.g. the difference between cold compressed and distilled oils11. Using sensitizing essential oils12. using high concentration of an ingredient that works best in a limited percentage13. Using the wrong version of an ingredienti.e. if you're using Squalene (the bad) instead of Squalane (the good). Or if you're trying to prevent TEWL, yet use a low molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid, instead of a high molecular weight one.14. Avoiding an ingredient/group of ingredients that you think are bad for you without testing it out.When I first used Elta MD UV Clear I thought I'd found my holy grail because No White Cast! But my skin was burning by the 4th day. So I looked to people with the same reaction and decided oh Octinoxate must be new nemesis! Alas, I looked back to other sunscreens I've tried and realized Octinoxate was in one of them, albeit in a lower percentage. Could it be a. the higher percentage is causing my skin to sensitize? b. another ingredient was destroying my skin? c. the formula itself was not a good match for me? But there really is no way of finding out, unless I'm concocting my own formula, with one element different at a time. And I was *really* sick of using sunscreens with a white cast. Which leads me to an important point below.​Finally, my biggest Hail Mary to a compromised moisture barrier is Ceramides!I put Ceramides in such a high regard because (referring to point 14) if I pat on Ceramide lotion the night before, I could tolerate UV clear again the next day. Although those with acne or melassezia might want to be careful if it breaks you out.​List of blogs that saved my skinVanity RexSimpleSkincareScienceTheBeautyBrainsSnow White and the Asian PearBeautiful with BrainsOf Faces and Fingers​Note: It's not just enough to trust what you're reading, it's best to research, research, research, read the scientific papers if you have to.
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